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請問中英對照關於“雲南服飾”的文章![重分答謝]

民族服飾色彩的象征功能,隨著歷史的演化而演化。其中壹個重要的也是必然的趨勢,就是服飾色彩從動物本能或圖騰、宗教以及記史釋俗的歷史重負下解脫出來,成為人們美化生活、展示民族心理特征的襯飾。這是人類發展史上的壹種文明和進步,因為人類越向前發展,審美的精神內涵會日漸增強,對服飾色彩的要求就越高。

服裝的色彩美是壹個很重要的問題。壹些研究色彩的學者曾提出配色的七種法則:統壹法、襯托法、點綴法、呼應法、分塊法、緩沖法、銜接法。壹般說,莊重、樸實的格調,往往是由深度的顏色構成的,而輕快、明朗的格調往往由淺色系列的顏色構成。人們經過巧妙的選擇、搭配,通過色與色之間的過渡產生壹種類似於音樂中優美旋律的感覺,這是用色的極高境界。此外,色彩的心理作用還包括:收縮感和膨脹感,壹般說,黑色、深色具有收縮感,而白色、淺色具有膨脹感;當人們看到紅、橙、黃色時,常會聯想到具有同樣顏色的太陽、火光等而產生暖熱感,而青、藍、紫等色彩往往使人聯想到海水、夜空而生發冷感,等等。各民族經過長期的生活實踐,自覺或不自覺地利用了色彩的這些功能,使服裝色彩具備了各自的個性。

許多少數民族婦女的服飾大都采用色彩斑斕,大紅大綠的衣料制成,具有濃郁的民族特點。如雲南峨山、新平、石屏縣的彜族“聶蘇”支系的花腰婦女衣褲,喜用對比強烈的兩種以上色布拼接而成,全身以紅色為主,紅黑相間,雜以綠、藍、白等色,鮮艷悅目,美不勝收。背部飾有五色條布合成並繡上各種花紋圖案的彩虹帶,表示太陽光芒向四周噴射。

各民族服飾色彩體現出不同的風格特點,給人以不同的審美感受。獨龍族的服裝給人以簡樸粗獷的印象;苗、瑤、布依等民族服飾,做工精細,色彩艷麗,極富裝飾意味,多以黃、紅、藍、綠、白等對比強烈的色彩,運用織、繡、挑、染等工藝,色彩艷麗而協調,圖紋繁多又不顯紊亂,顯示出婦女們特有的藝術才華及其審美心理,成為各民族表達審美情感和審美理想的有力工具。

可以預見,隨著少數民族社會的發展,民族服飾色彩作為審美符號將出現以下三個特點:

1、功利的、實用的服飾色彩將向著審美的方向不斷躍進。由於少數民族的社會發展存在著巨大的差異,許多民族服飾中關於“美”的觀念主要還是從其自身的文化觀念中引伸出來的,即“善”、“真”就是美,色彩本身的審美規律並沒有真正發揮作用,可望今後有大的突破。

2、民族服飾色彩在客觀上表現出來的“美”多是本能的、不自覺的。隨著色彩實踐的深入,人們對色彩的本質和規律將有進壹步的認識和把握,他們將從本能中解脫出來,在色彩的利用上完成壹次飛躍,達到真正意義上的自覺。

3、民族服飾色彩還將從表現群體審美意識逐漸走向表現個性、表現自由,這是社會平等、文明、繁榮的象征。

總之,隨著社會的發展,淵源於動物本能的社會成員的審美需要被召喚而凸現出來,色彩審美規律開始發揮作用。這種基於審美需要而自覺調整服飾色彩的現象,在民族服飾中是很常見的。他們為了在自己的服裝上增加壹些色彩,增添幾分美,遵循壹定的色彩表現規律和法則,創造出服飾色彩這種“有意味的形式”。

民族服飾藝術的點睛之作

雲南各民族婦女不僅是紡紗織布的能工巧匠,也是挑花刺繡的能手。她們從美化自身開始,在最能表現裝飾藝術的帽子、衣領、袖口、胸兜、圍腰、鞋及挎包等繡上美麗的圖案,賦予美好的含義。

走進雲南民族博物館民族民間手工藝品專題館,這壹類不但具有實用性、而且具有欣賞價值與美感的民間藝術品,就會撲面而來。

被稱為民族服飾藝術“門面”的繡片,可分為單純使用的繡件,如手帕、方巾、裝飾繡件等,和服飾上的配飾繡片如袖口、衣領、胸兜、領披等等。不同民族的繡片,又各具特色。

壯族背心繡片。既有繡鳥、蝴蝶、花卉,以白布貼繡出花卉圖案,將絲繡的花鳥圖案分隔開來,構圖對稱,極為精致;也有貼花鎖繡背心。鎖繡工藝是雲南壯、彜、白等族繡花的壹種技藝,先在繡件上剪出要繡的圖案,再用不同色彩的絲線“鎖”出圖案邊緣,立體感極強。

路南彜族挑花大方巾。以對角線為中心,用黑線繡出五具圖案區,每個圖案區上下左右對稱。最邊壹區繡有人物、狗;第二區繡有人和蝴蝶或蜜蜂;第三區為樹木圖案;第四區為蝴蝶圖案;第五區為中心圖案,以黑線繡成壹朵大的花卉造型,內分別繡有二至四區的代表圖案和民居。每層圖案都由不同的色線繡成,整體構圖緊湊、嚴密,繁而不亂,是繡件中的精品。

帽飾、帽子是服飾的重要組成部分。雲南各少數民族都有自己傳統特點的帽子,其中尤以童帽最為精彩。童帽不但種類繁多,造型栩栩如生,而且裝飾技藝多樣,飾紋精美,寓意深遠。

紅河彜族牌坊帽。這是彜族常見童帽,帽沿以銅或鋁制成佛像裝飾,形同牌坊,有祈福避邪之意,寄托著母親對孩子的摯愛。

昆明漢族虎頭帽。上繡有“王”字,並有牌坊型蓮蓬,風格上與彜族的極為相似。

傣族童帽。用盤繡、鏤空拼繡等技法,以五色絲線繡制而成,風格上顯得華貴富麗。

鞋飾。白族、彜族、壯族、布依族、蒙古族、普米族和傣族等都有穿繡花鞋的習慣。過去年輕姑娘結婚出嫁時,必須身著新娘裝足穿繡花鞋,婚後壹年內重大節日及拜認親戚等場合也需穿繡花鞋。在大理白族民間,至今許多老年婦女仍喜歡穿自己縫繡的繡花鞋,鞋上多繡有“壽”字或吉祥圖案,她們認為穿這樣的繡花鞋能長壽健康。童鞋多以動物為造型,與兒童天真可愛、喜歡小動物的童趣融為壹體,煞是逗人喜愛。其中比較有代表性的“十二生肖鞋”,把中國特有的屬相運用到童鞋上來,更具民間情趣。

香包。也有稱荷包的,是雲南民間的傳統刺繡工藝品,也是青年男女表達愛情的信物和裝飾品。在雲南民間習俗裏,端午節戴香包,可以祈吉避邪。香包的種類很多,有動物造型的猴子串香包、彩馬香包,有蝴蝶香包、繡球、八卦香包等等。香包小巧玲瓏、繡工精細,便於攜帶,如今已成為重要的旅遊紀念品。

不論是精美的繡片、形制多樣的繡花鞋,還是稚趣可愛的童帽童鞋,小巧玲瓏的香包等,都集挑、紮、繡、貼、縫、扣、鎖、染等多種傳統技法於壹體,題材與構圖豐富多彩,質地多種多樣,做工考究,是民族服飾藝術寶庫中的畫龍點睛之作。

青銅器與雲南民族服飾

雲南民族眾多,服飾文化源遠流長,博大精深。盡管古代史料對雲南民族服飾的記載不很詳細,但晉寧石寨山、江川李家山等地出土的大批青銅器,尤其是器物上數以百計的人物圖像,為我們提供了壹個考據古今雲南民族服飾的資料寶庫。雲南現有20多個民族的服飾中,有10多個能在青銅器圖像中找到其源流。

從這些青銅圖像上,我們可看到不同民族、不同身份的服飾形象。如“戰爭貯貝器”、“鎏金獻俘扣飾”等,刻畫了古滇人的戎裝武扮;“籍田出行”及“上倉”貯貝器刻紋,則描繪了滇人的農裝、祭服;在數量更多的銅掛飾、銅劍、銅杖頭、銅扣飾上,人物的服飾更是不勝枚舉,或繁縟、或簡樸,種類繁多,式樣各異。主要有以下幾種:

板狀冠與鬥笠。晉寧石寨山出土的四人縛牛銅扣飾中的3人,以及八人樂舞銅扣飾中的4名舞蹈者,頭上都戴著壹種板狀冠,形狀與冕形冠相似,即發髻上有突起的乳釘及簡單的花紋,板中段有束帶與發髻系為壹體,再系在人的頸項上。冕是中原王朝高級官員所戴之冠,它不僅前後有垂珠,也有紋飾。石寨山出土的人物圖像所戴的“冕形冠”,僅有紋飾而無垂珠,並且戴的人也不是什麽高官,不能稱之為冕形冠。現代雲南的少數民族中,還有人戴這種冠,人們稱它為“板狀冠”或“頂板”,瑤族地區戴這種冠的支系被稱為“頂板瑤”,藏族地區也有人戴。

在晉寧石寨山出土的貯貝器上,播種場面中有人身背鬥笠;牧牛器蓋上的牧童也背著鬥笠。直到今天鬥笠仍與人們的生活日夜相伴,並且變得形制多樣,頗有風味。例如:雲南德宏地區傣族的小篾帽,用很細很薄的竹篾編制,小巧玲瓏。新平花腰傣的鬥笠,形制更為特異,帽檐往上略卷,有了壹種向上翹動欲飛的感覺,戴時高高地斜在前額,更顯別致。

披帔。披帔在滇國的使用很廣,無論是男是女或身份高下,幾乎人人都在使用。從青銅器圖像看,滇國的披帔上多數有花紋,除幾何形花紋外,還有孔雀、蛇、鹿等動物紋。它既有保暖作用,也是壹種華麗的裝飾品。

對襟衫。這是滇國主體民族中不分男女和身份高低的通用服裝;從青銅器圖像上看,凡發式為椎髻及銀錠髻的,都穿這種服裝。其特征是對襟、無領、衣長及膝,袖短並且窄,有的僅及肘。穿著時不系不扣,用帶束住,對襟的兩側有邊飾。這種古老的款式,不大講究體型線條美,而是以各種繡花裝飾來展示其特有的美。作為女裝,現在仍然在藏、苗、瑤、彜、哈尼、水、布朗、阿昌、佤、德昂、基諾、景頗等民族中流行。

褲子及裹腿。從眾多的青銅器圖像上可以看出,只有少數的古滇國居民在特殊場合下穿短褲。如石寨山和李家山出土的執傘男女俑,從他們蹲或跪坐的姿勢中,可以看到從上衣內暴露出來的短褲。多數情況下,無論男女都只穿壹件長至股膝間的上衣,直到近現代,雲南許多少數民族婦女仍然存在只穿裙子不穿褲的習慣。

由於滇國居民多數人沒有穿褲的習慣,除長衣和少量的短褲(或短裙)遮蓋部分身體外,脛部始終暴露在外面,因此壹些勞作者為了避免荊棘刺傷小腿,便用裹腿來進行保護。現代民族中此俗仍比比皆是。

發式。今天傣族婦女以束發為髻,穿筒裙、穿短袖衫,以金、銀裝飾牙齒等為主要服飾特征,這也是古老傳統。束發為髻在石寨山出土的青銅器圖像上就清晰可見,如四人樂舞俑就是高髻上束帶,他們發式的捆束方法和今天元江、新平等縣花腰傣婦女高髻的捆束方法基本相同。

刺繡。青銅器人物圖像十分細膩寫實,樂舞俑的裝束尤其花哨,有的周身密布圖形,條紋、幾何紋、水波紋、草水紋、雲狀紋、羽狀紋、鳥狀紋等各種紋飾,都出現在人物圖像上。紋樣的差異,似乎還表示著身份或職業的區別。時至今日,雲南的少數民族服飾仍繼承了古滇國“染采文繡”的精妙,款式更加多樣,色彩更加斑斕。

Chats the Yunnan national minority clothing color

The national clothing color symbolic function, evolves along with the historical evolution. Is important also is the inevitable tendency, is the clothing color driven instinct or the totem, the religion as well as records Shi Shisu under the historical heavy burden to extricate, becomes the people to beautify the life, the demonstration nationality psychology characteristic lining decoration. This is in the human history one kind of civilization and the progress, because the humanity jumps over move forward, the esthetic mental connotation can strengthen day after day, is higher to the clothing color request.

Clothing color America is a very important question. Some research colors scholars' once proposed matches colors seven principles: The unification method, serves as contrast the law, the spot 綴法, echoes the law, the piecemeal law, the cushion law, the title connection. Generally said that, grave, simple style, often is constitutes by the depth color, but lively, bright style often by tinted series color constitution. The people pass through the ingenious choice, match, produces one kind through between the color and the color transition to be similar in the music the exquisite melody feeling, this is with the color side high boundary. In addition, the color psychological process also includes: The contraction feeling and the inflation feeling, generally said that, the black, the deep color have the contraction feeling, but the white, the tint have the inflation feeling; When the people saw when red, orange, yellow, the regular meeting associates has the similar color the sun, the flame and so on has 暖熱 the feeling, but blue, blue, purple and so on the color often causes the person to associate the sea water, the nighttime sky produces the cold feeling, and so on. Various nationalities passed through the long-term life practice, determination or not on own initiative have used color these functions, caused the clothing color to have respective individuality.

Many national minorities women's clothing mostly uses the color variegated, the loud colors dress material makes, has the rich national characteristics. If the Yunnan Oshan, Sinping, Shiping County's Yi nationality "the Nie Soviet" collateral series' colored waist woman clothing, happy becomes with contrast intense two kind of above 色布 splicing, whole body by red primarily, reddish black alternates with, by green, blue, white isochromatic, bright is mixed good-looking, too beautiful to behold. The back decorated with 五色 striped cloth synthesis and embroiders each kind of pattern design the rainbow belt, indicated the solar ray to all around sprays.

Various national clothing color manifests the different style characteristic, for person by different esthetic feeling. Drung nationality's clothing gives the person by the simple rough impression; Seedling, precious, national clothing and so on Puyi, works fine, color gorgeous, extremely rich decoration meaning, many by yellow, red, blue, green, waits in vain to contrast the intense color, the utilization weaves, embroiders, selects, dyes and so on the craft, the color gorgeous and coordinated, attempts the grain to be many does not reveal the disorder, demonstrated the women unique art talent and its the esthetic psychology, become various nationalities to express the esthetic emotion and the esthetic ideal powerful tool.

May foresee, along with the national minority society's development, the national clothing color took the esthetic mark will appear following three characteristics:

1st, the utility, the practical clothing color will be approaching the esthetic direction 不斷躍進. Because national minority's society develops has the huge difference, in many national clothings about "beautiful" the idea mainly or extends from its own cultural idea, namely "is friendly", "really" is America, the color itself esthetic rule certainly untrue display function, will hope to have the big breakthrough from now on.

2nd, the national clothing color in on objective displays "beautifully" are many is the instinct, unconscious. Along with color practice thorough, the people will have the further understanding and the assurance to the color essence and the rule, they will extricate from the instinct, will complete a time of leap in the color use, will achieve in the true significance determination.

3rd, the national clothing color also gradually will move towards the performance individuality, the performance freedom from the performance community esthetic consciousness, this will be the social equality, the civilized, the prosperity symbol.

In brief, along with society's development, the origin is esthetic to the animal instinct members of different social classes needs to summon but 凸現 comes out, the color esthetic rule starts to play the role. This kind but on own initiative adjusts the clothing color based on the esthetic need the phenomenon, in the national clothing is very common. They in order to increase some colors on own clothing, increases several minute America, follows the certain color performance rule and the principle, creates clothing color this kind "to have meaning the form".

National clothing art adds the finishing touch work

The cloud Namhkok nationality woman not only is the skilled craftsman which reels thread to weave cotton cloth, also is the embroidery embroidery expert. They from beautify own start, in most can display the decoration art the hat, the collar, the sleeve cuff, the chest pocket, the girdle, the shoes and the satchel and so on embroiders the beautiful design, entrusts with the happy meaning.

Enters the Yunnan nationality museum nationality folk handicrafts topic hall, this kind not only has the usability, moreover has the appreciation value and the esthetic sense folk artware, can caress the face.

Is called the national clothing art "the facade" is embroidered the piece, may divide into the pure use to embroider, like the handkerchief, the hand towel, the decoration embroider and so on, matches the decoration with the clothing on to embroider the piece like sleeve cuff, the collar, the chest pocket, the collar throws over and so on. The different nationality embroiders the piece, also each characteristic.

The Zhuang nationality vest embroiders the piece. Also has embroiders the bird, the butterfly, the flowers and plants, embroiders the flowers and plants design by the white ornamental pathches, embroiders the silk the flower-and-bird design to separate, composition symmetrical, is extremely fine; Also has the applique lock to embroider the vest. The lock embroiders the craft is Yunnan is strong, Yi, waits in vain the race to embroider the flowered one technique, first in embroiders the design which on cuts must embroider, then uses the different color the silk thread "the lock" the design edge, the stereoscopic effect greatly strengthened.

South road Yi nationality embroidery big hand towel. Take the opposite angle line as the center, embroiders five designs areas with the heavy line, about each design area bilateral symmetry. Most side an area embroiders has the character, the dog; The second area embroiders some person and the butterfly or the honeybee; The third area is the trees design; The fourth area is the butterfly design; The fifth area is the central design, to the heavy line embroiders a big flowers and plants modelling, in separately embroiders has two to four areas representative designs and the common people residence. Each design all embroiders by the different streak, the overall composition compact, is strict, numerous but is not chaotic, is embroiders a center the high-quality goods.

The hat decoration, the hat are the clothing important constituent. The cloud Namhkok national minority all has the oneself tradition characteristic the hat, You Yitong the hat is most splendid. Virgin hat not only type many, modelling lifelike, moreover decoration technique diverse, plays the part of the grain finely, the implication is profound.

Red River Yi nationality memorial arch hat. This is the Yi nationality common child hat, the hat along makes the image of Buddha decoration by the copper or the aluminum, the shape with the memorial arch, has prays avoids evil influences meaning, is reposing the mother to child's love.

Kunming Han Nationality noble appearance hat. On embroiders has "the king" the character, and has the memorial arch seed case of lotus flower, in the style and the Yi nationality is extremely similar.

Dai national minority Tong Mao. Embroiders with the plate, hollows out spells embroiders and so on the technique, embroiders the system by 五色 the silk thread to become, in the style appears magnificently and expensively is splendid.

Shoes decoration. Pai nationality, the Yi nationality, Zhuang nationality, Buyi national minority, the Mongolian nationality, 普米族 and the Dai national minority and so on all has puts on embroiders the embroidered shoes the custom. In the past the young girl married when got married, must wear the bride to install the foot to put on embroiders the embroidered shoes, married in the latter year the significant holiday and recognizes situation and so on relative also must put on embroiders the embroidered shoes. In Dali's Pai nationality folk, until now many old ages women still liked putting on oneself sew embroider embroider the embroidered shoes, on the shoes embroider have "are long-lived" the character or the propitious design, they thought put on such embroiders the embroidered shoes to be able the longevity health. Tong Xieduo take the animal as the modelling, naive is lovable with the child, likes micro-organism's virgin interest merging into one organic whole, really teases to like. Comparison has "the Chinese zodiac shoes" representatively, utilizes the Chinese unique animal representation of a birth year the virgin shoes to come up, has the folk appeal.

香包. Also has the name purse, is the Yunnan folk traditional embroidery handicraft, also is the youth men and women expresses the love the faith token and the ornament. In the Yunnan folk custom, Dragon Boat Festival wears 香包, may pray lucky avoids evil influences. 香包 the type are very many, has the animal modelling the monkey string 香包, the color horse 香包, has the butterfly 香包, embroiders the ball, the Eight Diagrams 香包 and so on. 香包 small and exquisite, embroiders the labor to be fine, is advantageous for carries, now has become the important traveling souvenir.

No matter is fine embroiders the piece, the construction diversely embroiders the embroidered shoes, or young interest lovable Tong Maotong shoes, small and exquisite 香包 and so on, all the collection selects, grips, embroiders, pastes, the seam, the buckle, locks, dyes and so on the many kinds of traditional technique to a body, the theme and the composition is richly colorful, quality of material many and varied, works elegantly, is in the national clothing art treasure house adds the finishing touch work.

Bronzeware and Yunnan nationality clothing

Yunnan nationality multitudinous, the clothing culture is well-established, broad and profound. Although the ancient times historical data was not very detailed to the Yunnan nationality clothing record, but Jinning Shi Zhaishan, Jiangchuan Li Jiashan such as places unearthed large quantities of bronzewares, in particular on utensil hundreds of characters picture, has provided a textual criticism ancient and modern Yunnan nationality clothing material treasure house for us. In the Yunnan existing more than 20 nationalities' clothing, some more than 10 can find its source and course in the bronzeware picture.

From these bronze pictures, we as worthy of looking at as different national, different sta